How to: Wear the New Autumn/Winter Makeup Collections … in Spring
Thu, 30 August 2012 1:38PM
We’re a funny lot in the beauty industry. In bygone days, we complained because the gorgeous, limited-edition make-up collections would be available overseas for months and months before they hit our shores. We’d pore over them in international magazines, salivating, bemoaning the fact that we’d have to wait half a year before we could get our hands on these shiny-new products. Sometimes, *gasp*, they’d even sell out before they made it to local stores, and that cult nail polish or lust-worthy luminiser would become beauty legend…The Ones That Got Away.
Fast-forward a few years and our prayers have been answered. New-season collections are fast-tracked down under, so we have access to their limited loveliness at the very same time as our traditionally spoilt northern hemisphere counterparts. Joy! Rapture! But…oh. They’re developed for the northern hemisphere seasons, too. And suddenly the counters are brimming with bronzers in winter and sooty eyeshadows in summer. Cue complaining again. See what I mean? A funny lot, indeed.
This week, as we excitedly prepare to welcome spring (hooray!), we also welcome some really-quite-wintery make-up ranges. Fashion-forward cases in point: Yves Saint Laurent …
and Burberry Beauty …
… which I’ve been trialing over the past few days. And instead of complaining about cold-weather colours and textures, I’m determined to get equally as excited about the new collections, despite them being a bit off-kilter, season-wise
In preparation, I called on beauty expert Michael Brown (you might have seen him strutting his stuff on Mornings on Channel 9), to find out how we mere mortals can work wintery buys when the temperature soars.
Problem #1: The foundations are heavy and matt
MB’s Solution: “I do think Australians can wear matt or velvet finish foundations in summer, especially those with oily skin,” he reports. “Women often get very shiny by the end of the day or after a night out, because their foundation choice is very dewy. If you want to stay looking fresh and fabulous after a long day, matt finishes that can achieve this.”
Try the trend: The new Burberry Beauty Velvet Foundation, $80, from selected David Jones, takes time to blend, but lasts ages.
Problem #2: Won’t I look caked-on?
MB’s Solution: “As long as you use the correct skin care and/or primer under the foundation to take care of any dehydration you may have, it will not affect your skin,” he explains. “You may not have the dewy effect you like when first applying your foundation, but within a couple of hours you’ll have a nice, natural glow as the foundation adapts to your complexion and the climate. This also means you’ll need to use less powder, which can look cakey.” Too right.
Try the trend: M.A.C Prep & Prime Skin, $45, M.A.C, will perfect skin before make-up.
Problem #3: Dark lip colours are so dominant for the winter
MB’s Solution: “I’m a big fan of the red, berry and coffee lip trends this season. They’re bold and, chosen correctly to suit your skin tone, can be the perfect balance to your hot-weather look,” he says. “Traditionally, summer colours are bright, neon or glossy, but the new wintery shades scream elegance. To make them summery, I always apply a dab of highlighter in gold or silver on the centre of a bold lip.” But why, Michael? “By doing this you visually lift the colour, while breaking down the heaviness of your shade chosen. It also adds a slight sheen, which summer is all about.”
Try the trend: Apply Burberry Beauty Lip Cover in Mocha Glow, $49, from selected David Jones, from the Autumn/Winter 2012 collection, for a dusty dark shade with a hint of shimmer.
Problem #4: I’d only ever wear a bold lip once in a blue moon…
MB’s Solution: “Multitask. Use a touch of the deep lipstick as a cream blush, massaging a small amount into the apple of your cheeks to create a summer freshness,” he explains. “It’ll look like a stain, rather than a heavy helping of colour, which is what make-up should be, rather than there’s too much sitting colour sitting on top of the skin.” Double-duty beauty at its best.
Problem #5: The eye palettes are all dark and dramatic
MB’s Solution: “There are a few ways to make darker, wintry palettes work for summer,” he enthuses. “You can start by adding some brighter, pastel-style shades. Try a pop of colour over deeper shades on your mobile eyelid (just above your eyeball). When you blink or look down, there is a summer twist to your look,” he says. “Or, add a pastel eyeliner along your bottom lash line only – the darker shades will give definition and depth to your eyelid, while the liner will add a touch of summer freshness against your lower lash line, lifting the entire look.” Smart idea.
Try the trend: Yves Saint Laurent Pure Chromatics palette in Harmony No. 10, $90, from the Autumn Winter Look 2012/2013, showcases wintry metallics that work just as well for summer, too.
Problem #6: I don’t know where to wear dark shadows in summer
MB’s Solution: “In a palette, there will always be one lighter, maybe more shimmery shade which is great to use as a wash over the entire eyelid, blending into nothing as you move up to your brow bone. Then, keep the deeper shades strictly against your lash line to define your eyes, softly blending it into the lighter shade,” he advises.
Problem #7: There are so many different limited-edition products to pick from – I can’t decide what to choose…
MB’s Solution: “My personal choice would definitely be a deep lip colour. They can make such a statement, are quick to apply, and you can wear them with next to nothing on your skin,” he says. “You pretty much only need a concealer, bronzer and mascara with a bold lip look, then you’re done!”
Try the trend: Yves Saint Laurent Rouge Pur Couture The Mats in Rouge Rock, $50, new for the 2012/2013 look, is fabulously retro and deeply flamboyant.
And there, Primpers, is how the pros make winter make-up work in summer. Do you have any tried and tested tips for taking a traditionally cold-weather palette into the warmer months? Share, and we’ll all look sexier this season.
Until next week,
Posted by: Emily Taylor